Calico Rabbits

IMPORTANT: If a buck and doe 5 months old or older are left together for any length of time assume that your doe is now pregnant. Your doe should be delivering several little bundles of joy (kits) in 31 days, though it may be a few days earlier or later.

 

1. Decide what you are breeding for and why. [ex: breed, color, length of ears, temperment (friendlyness), show or pet etc]

 

2. Pick your rabbits for breeding according to the guidelines you have set for yourself.

 

Now that you have picked out your rabbits it's time to put the rabbits together.

 

3. Introduce your rabbits either in a neutral area (a space that is used by neither rabbit such as an empty cage) or by placing the doe in the buck's cage. Do NOT put the buck in the doe's cage as does are very territoral and may attack the buck causing him injury.

 

4. The rabbits may be left together for as short a time as one coupling to the length of one day depending on space and how well they are getting along. If the coupling is successful the buck will typically fall over and might squeal. If a doe is growling at the buck or making sounds of distress she is not interested in breeding. (She may still take and become pregnant but it is less likely than if the doe is receptive to the buck.) If she is not receptive remove the doe and try again in a day or two.

 

If a coupling has taken place remove the doe from the presence of the buck no latter than the end of the day.

Do NOT place the doe back with the buck until you intend to breed her again. Rabbits that are bred a second time on a separate day during pregnancy may carry multiple litters endangering your doe and her unborn kits.

 

If you are not sure if your doe is bred either ask an expert to check 14 days after suspected breeding or keep the doe and buck separate for 35 days.

 

5.Mark your calendar for 31 days from the day of the coupling. Now count back five days from that and mark your calendar so that you can make sure her nest box is ready. [A nest box is a place for the doe to give birth and raise her young. It should be made of either metal or wood though a shoebox or a clean plastic litter tray will work in an emergency.]

 

The nest box should be filled with clean bedding material. We use 1-2 inches of aspen chips on bottom and then fill the rest of the nest box with straw and let the doe arrange it to her liking. The bottom layer of aspen chips will soak up any fluids leaving the top layer of straw dry. Straw makes wonderful nesting material that allows the kits' poop to sift to the bottom of the box. Hay can be used in place of straw. If the doe uses the nesting box as a litterbox just clean the bedding and replace it.

 

If you are comfortable with using computer programs you can download a program called Kintraks that will allow you to keep track of mating days and after set up for rabbits it will automatically calculate the date of birth and a reminder to set up the nest box. It can be used to keep track of pedigrees, sales, and purchases as well as show information and contacts. Best of all this program is free up to 60 different animals.

 

6. Now the hard part. You sit back and wait. Your doe will typically start making her own nest by shaping the bedding and pulling fur. This can happen at anytime from a few days before she gives birth to right before and even during the birthing process. We had one doe that didn't make her nest until after the babies were born.

 

7. Leave the doe alone during the birthing process unless she seems distressed and needs veterinary intervention. Most rabbits will do fine having the kits by themselves given a quiet and secluded area. After you are absolutely sure the doe has finished giving birth, had time to feed the kits and cleanup [the does will clean the kits and eat the afterbirth] you may try to take a peek to see how many she has had and if any are in distress [cold, not breathing, still born, etc].

 

DO NOT place your hand in the nest box unless absolutely necessary or you know that your doe is not concerned by your presence. If absolutely necessary you may offer your doe her favorite treat to try and distract her while you get a closer look at the babies. If she refuses the treat or leaves it once you look in the nest box back away and leave them alone.

 

It may be necessary on occassion to pick up a kit and place it back in the nest box [momma rabbit will not pick up babies and move them]. Kits that get out of the nest box before 2 weeks of age may become chilled and could die so you will have to round them up if they escape and place them back. To ensure the most saftey possible make sure the wire around the last two inches at the bottom of the cage sides is small enough that the kits will not fall through.

 

8. You should allow the doe a period of rest between breedings. A doe can be bred the same day she gives birth to a litter but it is best to let her raise her current litter before breeding again. It is even better to allow a month or two after the babies are weaned for her to replenish her own reserves of nutrients and allow her to regrow the hair she pulled before breeding again for a healther rabbit.

 

9. Rabbits can have a false pregnancy. It is similar to actually being pregnant including building a nest but they do not have any babies. This can happen even if the rabbit was not potentially bred usually when another rabbit has had babies or the doe has just weaned a litter.